Musanze/ Volcano National Park - Ja, genau, Vulkane!

Muraho! (Hello!)

Last Friday was another fine day to travel across winding roads to the North. This time however, not to leave the country, but to visit our (Laura's and mine) friend Beth. Eternally thankful for anti-puking pastiles (not the ones Fred and George came up with), because this country is really so mountanous. Consequentually, the roads go up and down. Luckily, the speed limit is 60km/h (Conservative German politicians, look at that!). There were many many road fatalities in Rwanda and thus the government decided to do something about it. Next to the speed limit, they are also educating the population on other measures of road safety, as I read, for example by going to church meetings, to reach a wide number of people (next to usual media outlets of course). Another law: Helmets are mandatory on motorbikes (boda-bodas in Swahili). 

 

Me, my helmet and I. I am getting more adventurous with taking photos on the boda-boda for sure.

In the long distance buses, seats are only occupied by one person. However, where usually you would walk, you can also fold down another seat. Very space-efficient.

Only two and a half hours later, we arrive in Musanze. First went to a tiny Rwandan restaurant, where the owners ladel food from many different pots onto your plate. Absolutely delicious, if a little dry if one insists on not eating meat sauce (like my Muzungu self). Beth lives a little outside the tiny town, at the university campus, where she is doing her research project. She and Mary Anne, our other classmate, live in a back house which is owned by the dean. Forgot to take a photo of the cute little courtyard which they share with a few other students. Most importantly, the courtyard contains a clothing line and a water tap for washing. Rwandans seem to wash their clothes and shoes very thoroughly and much more reguarly than I. I have already had to negate my bed sheets being cleaned multiple times in the four weeks that I've been here! I feel just as dirty as when I was staying with my French exchange student, Heloise, and she took a shower every (!) morning. 


 
Views of the volcanoes from all around town.

Showering was also the motto when we woke up the next morning. Absolute downpour. Luckily, it did stop eventually, so we took off to get some breakfast and visit the local mall/ indoor market. Beth had already told us about the large section of fabrics and so Laura and I commenced to order pants/ a jumpsuit. Would be done the next morning. Wonderful. Let's see some nature.


 Beth is even happy when it's raining. 
 
Beth's friend Eliab, an aspiring tour guide, had organized a taxi for us and we take off to the Twin Lakes. First tarmac, than a very stony dirt road up the mountain side. But what views! A little more rain and we're done with the bad weather for that day. We take a boat to an island, and spend the rest of the afternoon with panoramic views into the landscape. Special treat are the absolutely huge volcanoes in the back. One of them (no clue where in the photos), Mount Bisoke, will be climbed by my mom and I in two weeks. And yes, we will sleep in the island hotel. Cannot imagine anything more beautiful or peaceful. Also shared a delicious Talapia from the lake with Laura, how delicious. Definitely worth swearing off vegetarianism for the duration of my stay here, at least for fish. They are not that cute anyways...


Let it be known that I didn't touch the water, which may have the little worms that crawl into your skin! Haven't figured out yet why these worms exist, maybe from the heat?

 
Boat-bus, servicing the island inhabitants. No, there is no schedule, you communicate that you want to embark with the driver beforehand (probably by phone, didn't ask). 

Destination island in the back.


 
Some of the volcanoes. 

 

I wouldn't be researching construction if I hadn't stopped the driver on the way back to take a few pictures. The outer walls are constructed with volcanic rocks. Whereas walls for dwelling spaces are built with burnt and sometimes (cheaper) unburnt bricks, which are then plastered.  



Bought some corn on the cob on the way back and roasted that in the bonfire at the bar we went to in Musanze. Wonderful end of the day.



Woke up very early the next morning and took a walk to find the volcanoes looming in the distance. What a beautiful place to live. Was greated by all the locals - Murakoze means Good morning. Bought some chapati and avocado for breakfast. Strenghtened, we set out to pick up our garments at the market. Laura's pants are done, my jumpsuit far from is. It turned out to be quite a complicated design. But oh wow, my taylor Jenny really did a marvelous job (see photo), and she was understandably very proud when we took some pictures. Note: All of this was done to my exact measurements, from just one photo I downloaded and sent her via WhatsApp and with a sewing machine powered by mechanical movements of the foot (see video). 



Finally finished, got some lunch and set out on our next adventure. Good that we had our tour guide Eliab, who knows exactly where to go! We take a bus to the foot of one of the volcanoes and take a nice hike around there. To the amusement of many locals of course. Why are the muzungus walking? Usually everyone foreign travels to the National Park in a spaceship-like jeep. We make friends with many kids playing soccer, who are very intent on having their group picture taken as if they just won the World Cup. I sent the pic to one of the kids (Patrick) afterwards via email. They join us for part of the walk, and Patrick tells me half his life story in impressively good English. He is 13 and lives with his grandmother, as his parents passed away. What I had already read before, he confirms: Rwandan school children have to pay school fees after a few years of basic education. Patrick has had trouble to pay his schoolfees (no wonder, with only his grandma to care for him). But he is very intent on finishing his schooling, because he wants to come to Germany. Very impressive planning for a 13-year old, I think. He asks me whether my parents paid for my schooling in Germany and also about my family constellation in general. I tell him that schools in Germany are free and that I think that is how it should be. I think he couldn't really believe it. While it is mandatory for every boy and girl to go to school in Rwanda, one can definitely argue about how long that should be. Left them with big waves and handshakes and set off back to the bus station.


 





The bus leaves as soon as it is full. Meaning at least four people on three seats. This definitely fights obesity and of course carbon emissions. 20 min ride back for 50 cents. Great!

I since then conducted four interviews and my mind is buzzing with ideas for better affordable housing. More on this in another post.